He instructs you to make a proportionate tape of paper for the individual customer.
Quite fascinating, and I suspect this is a rather old method of measuring--it just isn't discussed in detail in other books. I like it. Acton's improvements on The tailor's transfer;. Manual; by Glencross, William. I believe this is a direct measure system. The tailor; new system of drafting direct from the measurement taken with a tape measure, without any instrument, for all the various forms of the human body by Phyliky, Leonard Extremely short. Unusually, he says to not bother with the diagram in the back, but to draft directly from his instructions.
Acton's improved system of actual measurement by Acton, William R. The prime difference is that more images are included. A complete system of cutting by Brundage, William W. It is decidedly brief, and would require an extra measure of study before using. The tailor; new system of drafting direct from the measurement taken with a tape measure, without any instrument, for all the various forms of the human body, simplified by a scale on double shoulder measure, to be learned without an instructor , by L.
It doesn't actually give instructions for drafting, so that would be somewhat a pain to follow, however, there is information on where to stretch the wool and points of fit you need to pay attention to. The tailors' guide: containing systems of draughting frock and sack coats, pants, vests and shirts, with valuable improvements, warranted superior to anything ever offered to the trade.
It is a direct transfer system, using specific measurements to draft. It looks complicated, but once you figure it out I'm tempted to play with it, actually.
Matheson's scientific and practical guide for the tailor's cutting department by Matheson, H. He goes into a fair amount of detail, and considers his system original; it is a direct measure, based on a block. There are some decidedly interesting garments in there, with drawings of them being worn. Particularly valuable since he gives instructions in tailoring, in the back of the book. Matheson's scientific and practical guide for the tailor's cutting department , Matheson, H.
Fairly standard overall. Divisional and exact measurement systems for garment cutting. He specifies the importance of taking the measures over a coat except chest and waist. However, the system requires a specific ruler of proportions--which is obviously not included online. Reading between the lines in the introduction, this is theoretical. In other words, the author is not an experienced tailor. Could definitely be interesting to attempt to follow it and produce a good garment.
A scientific guide to practical cutting by Glencross, William. He does seem to have changed his drafting method slightly since the book. Crawford's system on the science and art of garment cutting. I suspect this is a very "rock of the eye" love that term. It essentially means "eyeballing based on experience" system. However, it does have the adjustments for various postures and such.
Keystone Jacket & Dress Cutter Guide Women's Tailoring Excellent Patterns | eBay
It is a rather short book. The cutters' centennial guide; by Koch, Augustus A proportionate rule method. Linthicum, William O. Elements of garment cutting by Madison, J. O Absolutely fascinating. The author really goes into the bones of the theory of cutting and balancing a garment. This book is quite probably worth reading for the general information.
Thirty years at the cutting-board: being a work designed to assist the student to acquire knowledge in the art of cutting. Containing a series of diagrams laid down to measure by Larder, William. I believe this one is based on making up a series of patterns, then adjusting for each customer.
The cutter's manual ; Smith, Clarence B. The directions are straightforwarded. The cutter and guide ; by Koch, Augustus. The instructions seem to be fairly clear. There are some interesting garments in here as well--I am tempted to play with the system. Measurements use a square and calls for a marked piece of cardboard rather than the caliper thingy used in the later edition. Fifth Edition A proportionate measure system using a multiarmed squaring caliper contraption.
You should be able to work without it, however--the instructions are fairly detailed. The incline method by Moore and Radcliffe This seems quite familiar. A direct proportionate method of drafting.
The cutters' practical guide to the cutting of ladies' garments. Other than cutting, it goes into detail on the canvassing and interlining of various garments, which is unusual and extremely helpful. The Cutters' practical guide to cutting every kind of garment made by tailors : in a series of parts, Part one, Boys' and youths' garments, girls' costumes, jackets, riding trains, etc. This includes an extremely wide range of garments. Stone's, Stone's paramount-cutter; a system for cutting garments, based upon scientific principles, including the self-varying shoulder in connection with the division of the breast-measure.
Supposedly, it has a "special" way of drafting the shoulder to better the fit. The science of coat and vest cutting; by Kennedy, Henry G The drafting is interesting, but uses a special devise to transfer the measurements direct to draft. The intro and other information, however, is fascinating and worth reading if you plan to work professionally.
The "Keystone" Jacket and Dress Cutter: An 1895 Guide to Women's Tailoring
The page on suppression measures also is an important read. The self-instructor by Moore, Charles E. It does show each step in developing the blocks, and gives information on measuring. Key line system of garment cutting. It seems quite simple, and I believe the author is saying that it is all in the proportions--based on the golden ratio, perhaps? It does include modifications for disproportionate drafts. Garment cutting in the twentieth century.
Most interestingly, there is a look into the author's life in his introduction and credentials.
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He also goes into discussing measurements, pointing out some issues with measuring using a narrow tape, and with using standard ease for a man with a large gut. It looks rather complicated, but intriguing. The self instructor by Moore, Charles E. It uses a series of blocks based on direct measures. The Holmes cutter. A practical system for garment cutting that is based on selfvarying principles for block patterns..
It is written in both German and English. All these activities called for a definite change in female fashions. Women came to rely on tailored suits with full skirts and fitted jackets over simple blouses. Riding habits called for a long, draped skirt worn over a pair of trousers. With the dawn of the twentieth century, professional tailors turned to the comprehensive "Keystone" guide to create office outfits, riding pants, shirtwaists, and other garments.
Filled with more than eighty patterns, the handy resource provided tailors with suggestions for fabric choices as well as instructions for the proper measurement, fitting, cutting, and sewing of such items as a bolero jacket, a shirtwaist with yoke, a single-breasted vest, and riding breeches. Supplemented with a selection of newly captioned illustrations from The Delineator magazine, this volume will be a valuable reference for costume designers and fashion historians, and a fascinating window on the past for nostalgia enthusiasts.
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